Brakes wear gradually, so it's easy to get used to a pedal that has slowly become longer or a noise that has crept in over a few months. NRH Autoworks inspects and repairs braking systems at our garage on Windsor Road in Bray, for drivers across Maidenhead and the local area.
If something feels or sounds different, tell us about it. Enter your registration on the enquiry form, describe what you've noticed (a noise, a vibration, a warning light, the car pulling to one side) and we'll get back to you by phone or email to arrange an inspection.
What we can help with
- Brake pad and disc replacement
- Drum brake shoes and wheel cylinders
- Seized calipers and sticking brakes
- Brake pipes, flexible hoses and brake fluid
- Electronic parking brake faults
- ABS sensor, pump and module faults
Signs your brakes need checking
- Squealing or squeaking when you brake
- A harsh grinding or scraping noise
- Vibration or pulsing through the pedal or steering wheel
- A soft, spongy or long brake pedal
- The car pulling to one side under braking
- A brake, ABS or parking brake warning on the dashboard
- A handbrake that needs pulling higher than it used to
Pads, discs and drums
A high-pitched squeal is often the first sign that brake pads are getting low, and many pads are designed to make that noise as a warning. Grinding is more serious: it generally means the friction material has gone and metal is contacting the disc. Discs are replaced when they're worn below the manufacturer's minimum thickness, badly scored or corroded, or warped, which you feel as a pulsing through the pedal.
Many cars still have drum brakes at the rear, with curved brake shoes working inside a drum. They last a long time, so they're easily forgotten, but the shoes do wear and the mechanism inside can seize or stop adjusting itself. A handbrake lever that travels further than it used to is the usual clue. Pads, discs and shoes are always replaced across an axle so that braking stays even.
Calipers, pipes, hoses and fluid
The hydraulic side of the system turns pedal pressure into braking force. A seized caliper leaves a brake dragging. You may notice a hot wheel, a burning smell or the car pulling to one side. Leaking wheel cylinders in drum brakes contaminate the shoes with fluid. Steel brake pipes corrode, particularly above the rear axle where they're hard to see, and flexible hoses perish and crack with age.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and encourages corrosion inside the system. A soft or spongy pedal suggests old fluid, air in the lines or a leak. None of this can be confirmed without an inspection, but these are useful clues to give us when you enquire.
Electronic parking brakes and ABS
Many newer cars have an electronic parking brake in place of a handbrake lever, with small motors on the rear calipers. On these cars the rear pads can't simply be pushed back: the system has to be put into service mode with diagnostic equipment first, then reset afterwards. Parking brake faults, a warning message, a brake that won't release, a grinding motor, are diagnosed the same way.
The ABS relies on a speed sensor at each wheel and a pump and control module. A failed sensor, a damaged sensor ring or a wiring fault is the usual reason for an ABS or traction control light; pump and module faults are less common but do happen. We read the stored codes and test the circuit to find which it is before replacing parts.
What an inspection involves, and when to stop driving
We remove the wheels where necessary to measure the pads and discs properly, check the calipers move freely, and look over the brake pipes and flexible hoses for corrosion, damage and leaks. We also check the brake fluid and the operation of the handbrake. Afterwards we'll explain what we've found: what needs doing now, what has life left in it, and what to keep an eye on.
Most brake noises turn out to be routine wear, but brakes are the one system where waiting tends to make things worse and more expensive: worn pads ruin discs, and a small fluid leak doesn't stay small. If a red brake warning light comes on, the pedal sinks towards the floor, or you hear metal-on-metal grinding, stop driving the car and get advice first.
Brakes: common questions
How do I know if I need new brake pads or discs as well?
Pads wear faster than discs, so they're often replaced on their own. Discs need replacing when they've worn below the manufacturer's minimum thickness, or are scored, badly corroded or causing vibration. We measure both during an inspection and will tell you honestly which parts need doing and which have life left.
Why are my brakes squealing?
The common causes are pads that are nearly worn out, a build-up of brake dust, glazed pads, or light surface rust on the discs after the car has stood in damp weather, which normally clears after a few stops. If the noise persists or turns into grinding, have the brakes inspected.
How often should brake fluid be changed?
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can lead to a spongy pedal under heavy braking. Many manufacturers recommend changing it about every two years, but check your handbook for your car's schedule. We can check the condition of the fluid when the car is with us.
Are brake pads replaced one wheel at a time?
No. Pads and discs are replaced as a pair across an axle (both fronts or both rears) so that braking stays even from side to side. Front and rear brakes wear at different rates, so it's normal for one axle to need attention well before the other.
How do I book a brake check?
Enter your registration on the enquiry form, choose brakes, and describe what you've noticed and when it happens. We'll contact you by phone or email to arrange a time to inspect the car. If you think the brakes may be unsafe, say so in your message and don't drive the car until you've had advice.